Lou Whittaker, among the most famous American mountaineers, dies at 95

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Lou Whittaker is known for helping lead ascents of Mount Everest, K2 and Denali, and teaching generations of climbers during more than 250 trips up Mount Rainier.

SEATTLE — Lou Whittaker, a legendary American mountaineer who helped lead ascents of Mount Everest, K2 and Denali, and who taught generations of climbers during his more than 250 trips up Mount Rainier, the tallest peak in Washington state, has died at age 95.

In the early 1950s the brothers served in the Army's Mountain and Cold Weather command at Camp Hale, Colorado, where they trained an elite group of soldiers — the 10th Mountain Division — to execute wartime missions in unforgiving alpine conditions, according to a profile of the two by the Northwest outdoors nonprofit The Mountaineers.

Originally called Rainier Mountaineering Inc., the company is now owned by Lou Whittaker's son, Peter. Lou Whittaker never summitted Everest himself. But in 1984, he led the expedition that included the first successful American summit, and third overall, from the colder north side.

 

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