DNA lacked focus: here, a draped dress with a raw hem in tribute to Alber Elbaz, the late designer who put the house back on the map. There, a Batmobile-shaped clutch.
Broadcasting a clear identity for the Fosun-owned brand is key as it moves ahead with its turnaround plan, which includes the recent renovation of its flagship in Paris, and plans to double the share of accessories to account for 50 percent of sales. “There’s a mix of references that feels new, and I think that’s the playground of a creative person these days: to combine things that feel new when put together. The saying goes that what’s new is what hasn’t been seen in a while,” the designer explained. “It’s both moody and very playful, joyful, light and immediate. The Roaring ’20s to me is all about youth.”
Ironic, then, that the highlight of the show was the appearance of another icon of the supermodel era, Naomi Campbell, who swept through the colonnaded entrance of the Salle Pleyel concert hall in a sequin-embellished tuxedo and ruffled cape. You could practically hear her purr.
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