The first piece they set to work on was an ever-so-slightly iridescent ivy shirt, inspired by a shirt in one of Amoako’s paintings, which found an unlikely parallel in the Dior archive. “We looked at an ivy dress thatdesigned in the Fifties -- a special creation embellished with a belt and a parure in ivy -- and Amoako had done an amazing painting when we went to Ghana, with ivy in it, and so that was the connection and how we started.
The rest of the clothes were just as delightful. Colourful striped cummerbunds ; chartreuse berets; intricately sequinned floral shirts; box-pleated, wide-leg shorts; frogged silk military coats, Velcro-strapped espadrille sandals with monogrammed socks… Say it out loud and it sounds like an mish-mash of fashion jargon, yet just glance at the way it’s all put together and it has the air of elegance and beauty that Kim has established as his moda operandi at Dior.
Though, perhaps the most significant element of the collection was the all-Black casting, which felt especially prescient, not just because of the Black Lives Matter movement, but because just last week, Dior released an all-white video presentation for its haute couture collection. Understandably, it caused uproar -- and it would be easy to dismiss this as a rapid U-turn at 30 Avenue Montaigne.
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