Kabobs at these small Glendale restaurants are big on flavor

A few months ago, The New York Times published its list of the 50 Most Notable Restaurants in America. It came as a surprise to those of us who eat around to find a tiny takeout window, with limited hours, included among the nationwide luminaries., which is open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. It’s also where, as I discovered, the kabobs cannot simply be snagged on an impulse.

A few weeks after the story appeared in the NY Times’ food section, I was meandering through Glendale and headed for Vine Street, which is just off Central Avenue, to grab a Styrofoam box or three. The chef, Armen Martirosyan, son of the founders of Mini, was churning out takeout orders as fast as he could, working in a space that came closer to a walk-in closet than a madly popular kitchen. He was surrounded by plastic bags, waiting for pickup.

Martirosyan told me that since the article appeared, followed by a listing in a Los Angeles Times best restaurants survey, he’s been swamped with orders. And that for a walk-up on this particular day, the wait would be two hours — or longer. Which is amazing, considering that Mini Kabob has been around for more than 35 years when it opened as an adjunct to the adjacent car repair shop. It’s almost like, after 80 years, note was suddenly taken ofTwenty-five years ago, it changed owners. And after son Armen graduated from the old, he signed on. Not to “fancify” the place — if anything, he’s kept it as venerable as possible. But what he’s done is to set a level of quality, consistent quality, that’s admirable.

Mini Kabob occupies a modest space in Glendale, and restaurant critic Merrill Shindler says the signature offering definitely makes visiting worthwhile.

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