JW Anderson Fall 2022 Menswear Collection

Ah well. Had this collection been shown live this evening in Milan as planned—and the after-party Jonathan Anderson envisaged gone ahead too—it would have enhanced and disrupted this season’s menswear week in equal measure. As Anderson explained in a preview, however, the party element especially was nixed by Omicron restrictions and the live Milan debut has been pushed back until June.

During that preview, Anderson used the word “weird” 19 times: most often at a point at which he unlocked the thinking that had led to key elements in this collection. It was “weird” how a documentary on Cristiano Ronaldo inspired him to re-engage with “the limits of hyper-masculinity.

When not watching documentaries “on everything and anything” Anderson spent much of his time weird-scrolling, and the results inflected this collection. The gorgeous eye-graphic dresses had a chin-strokily John Berger inference yet were sparked by a bout of engaging with the world of YouTube make-up tutorials.

When Anderson detects the weird, he is not repelled but stimulated: for him weirdness holds creative opportunity. Allied with his highly refined sense of beauty, the results are unorthodoxly compelling—you just want to twang that rubber band. Roll on June.

JW_ANDERSON Men don’t wear these clothes

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