Jackson Wiederhoeft Debuts Namesake Label Through Ballet Performance

On Tuesday evening, young designer Jackson Wiederhoeft unveiled his namesake brand “Wiederhoeft” at a theatrical ballet performance-cum-fashion-show for his spring 2020 collection titled, “Spooky Couture.” The collection marks the designer’s first on his own, having recently left a three-year design position at Thom Browne following his graduation from Parsons School of Design in 2016, where he won “Women’s Designer of the Year.

“I feel like I got my master’s degree, in a sense, there,” Wiederhoeft mused of his time at Thom Browne, where he focused on hand-embroidered garments within the women’s runway collections. “When I left Thom, I thought I was going to do this on nights and weekends while at another job and eventually do this [full-time], but then I was thinking, ‘it’s never going to get any easier,’ and I’m dying to do something. Plus, I have so many friends who are going to be great collaborators,” he explained.

For the spring collection itself, Wiederhoeft’s love of theater, dance and performance fueled his work. His designs mixed fairy-tale ideas into bespoke, intricate garments piled with tulle, velvet and lace. Texture aplenty, came both elaborate — tiered gowns in white and red fastened at the waist with impeccable corsetry or a brown dress composed of layers of ribbons and lace both vintage and new sourced from India, New York, Japan, Italy — and “commercial.

“The live performance aspect to me is so magical, seeing the clothes come to life in that way, there’s nothing like it,” Wiederhoeft expressed, adding that the focus of his show wasn’t about making commercial pieces, but more about getting the word out. Looking toward the future, the designer hopes for retail growth, but also sees a custom, direct-to-client type of relationship due to the nature of his pieces, which range from around $2,000 to $6,000.

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