It was the first time a Dior jewelry collection had ever been shown on models in a formal presentation. Later in the evening, after guests sat down for dinner in various dining rooms, each model changed into a black dress and walked through the rooms, mimicking Monsieur Dior’s intimate couture shows in the ’50s and ’60s.
Unlike many of her past collections that were designed around a specific theme—the roses of Granville; hidden corners of Versailles; antique lace in Dior’s ateliers—de Castellane described Gem Dior as “abstract,” with a focus on the actual stones and their cuts and colors. “I wanted to play with the idea of looking at all of my previous collections and zooming in, so the stones become pixelated,” she explained. “I call it abstract, but also organic, because nothing is symmetrical or geometrical.
For collectors of de Castellane’s jewelry, that shift toward something a bit more natural was an exciting surprise. By the next day, many pieces had already been sold or reserved. The multicolored and dégradé items were understandably popular: one double-finger cocktail ring featured 10 different stones, including diamonds, emeralds, and purple garnets, while a pair of mismatched earrings had tourmalines, yellow sapphires, rubies, and pink spinels piled on top of each other.
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