, but they’re never quite treated as part of a distinct, singular cuisine, even though I’d argue that they are: Very few restaurants sell corn dogs, funnel cake, fried Twinkies, and caramel apples on the same menu, and often, if they show up at all, it’s as a winking allusion, like the foie gras funnel cake at fine dining restaurant Otium in Los Angeles.
The fair also has a wealth of light, sweet snacks that are perfect to grab and try whenever they catch your eye. The Wooden Shoe stand sells Dutch letter pastries, a classic from the town of Pella, Iowa; the person behind me in line declared he could never order fewer than two. Thin and S-shaped, they’re dusted with sugar and filled with almond paste, and they were the best and most unexpected pastry I tried.
I was a little unnerved to discover that the fair’s famous pork chop on a stick is really a pork chop held by the bone, served hot and unadorned, with barbecue sauce nearby. The pork chop’s main pleasure is in its briny juiciness, and the slight subversiveness of walking around eating a hunk of meat usually reserved for knife and fork. Home cooks and grill nerds might prefer their own pork chops, properly charred; the fair versions generally arrive gray with maybe, maybe faint grill marks .
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