The taco guy didn’t quite get the fuss. “I didn’t realize the magnitude of the whole thing,” recalled Arturo Rivera Martínez. “I had no idea of what a Michelin star was.” He does now. El Califa de León, the modest taquería where Rivera has labored over a sizzling grill for more than two decades, was awarded a star last week in the first-ever Michelin Guide Mexico, instantly turning him and the rest of the staff into epicurean heroes.
On social media, some commentators of a nationalist bent chafed at the very notion of French foodies passing judgment on the venerable Mexican taco. Declared one commentator on the social media platform X: “In my opinion — and call me a hater if you want — neither El Califa de León, or Mexican cuisine in general, needs the validation of the gastronomic marketing company of the tire-maker Michelin.
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