Is Mushroom “Leather” The Future Of Sustainable Fashion? It's Complicated

A piece of mycelium leather by MycoWorks.

“There's a lot of effort around using biology to either create totally new things or replace the old products we've maybe made with plastics and other chemicals [ie. insulin, ethanol],” says Eben Bayer, the co-founder of, a New York-based biotechnology company focused on creating sustainable alternatives to materials like foam and plastic.

Is mushroom leather the future of sustainable fashion then? It’s complicated. For one, each company has its own formula for growing and processing mycelium, which may include chemicals that alter the product’s organic composition. This brings up questions about the sustainable and non-toxic properties of mushroom leather. But, as companies like Bolt Threads argue, adding these chemicals is necessary.

Then, there’s the conversation around accessibility, as many of the mushroom leather products that are currently being touted are in the luxury market. And while it’s almost guaranteed to trickle down if it takes off at brands like Stella McCartney and Hermès, there are still few instances of material making its way down to mass-market brands.

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