Is Microwave Cooking About to Make a Comeback?

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Who has time to roast a leg of lamb when you're trying to have it all?

On night one of my experiment, I started with something familiar: “baked” potatoes with vegetarian chili. Microwave potatoes are well-known for a reason. Ten minutes on high delivers a chewy skin and fluffy interior. Also, you don’t need to run the oven for an hour. The chili was less exciting. Microwaving onion, garlic, and spices in a little butter felt wrong. And dumping in the beans and tomatoes then zapping them for a few minutes didn’t hold the same satisfaction as gazing into a saucepan.

My second attempt was a more successful vegetable curry. I’d worried this would be a disaster, knowing the magic of Indian food comes from layering flavors and giving them time to develop—two things microwave cooking obliterates. Also, the recipe only asked for a couple of tablespoons of curry powder, with no reference to anything in my lovingly curated spice cupboard. Still, the meal came together quickly and easily. Dressed up with yogurt and a nice chutney, it was a comforting mush.

Rice is another ingredient microwaves do consistently well, so next I tried a recipe for “fried” rice and miso bok choy. Use of the termwas generous, it turns out. The reality was regular microwaved rice seasoned with soy sauce and studded with frozen vegetables. Still, again, it was solidly fine and easily tossed together while feeding a baby and answering emails.

My final experiment was risotto. The microwave version took about 15 minutes, not 50, and sacrificed some quality for the sake of that convenience. The meal was gluey, but not totally unpleasant, and I ate it while finishing a TV show I wouldn’t have had time to catch up on if I had been cooking a proper meal, which seemed like a fair trade-off.

While the experiment was broadly positive, there were limitations. Microwaving something for 15 minutes will never return the deep flavors that come from nursing a pot on the stove for an hour. I also missed the ritual of cooking. Staring at a glowing box, wondering “Is that ‘microwave-safe’ bowl about to explode?” isn’t as relaxing as witnessing a pan, laden with molten cheese, crown in the oven.

 

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