by The Prodigy, with the sound of roaring lions and chirping African birds, all of which was then punctuated by the rattle of trains passing above the market en-route to nearby London Bridge station. The show’s concluding song, the 1973 funk classic
by Kool & the Gang, was almost drowned out by the loud applause and cheers from the assembled throngs.Everything from the frock coats and skin-tight dresses to the tunics, jeans and high-shoulder tailored jackets, were born from a wild mix of black, green and brown leathers and suedes, pinstripes, wools, vinyls, fox furs and boar skins, bleach-splattered denim, silk, printed cotton, and various sheer pieces adorned with human hair.
The models’ untamed headpieces were integral to the overall feral vibe, cultivated by Nicolas Jurnjack. “I put everything I could find on the hair. And the more animalistic and wild I went, the happier Lee got", he later recalled in Dana Thomas’ 2015 book,. Makeup devised by Topolino was no less extreme. The women had stark, gazelle-like eyes teamed with white contact lenses to blur the lines further between animal and human.
There were 100 looks in the show in total, and -- in stark contrast to so many marketing-savvy designer shows today -- there’s not a logo handbag or any other tangible sign of branding anywhere to be seen in the archive footage. These were less-hyped, more ‘naïve’ fashion times, after all. One in which confrontational designers such as McQueen championed self-expression and risked financial ruin rather than diluting their vision for easy-commerciality.
El chupacabras.
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