Inside Cambodia's quest to reclaim its looted treasures from California museums

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Thousands of precious antiquities disappeared from Cambodia during decades of war and strife. Now the country is taking on California museums to get them back.

The elderly woman was weaving baskets at home when a group of strangers arrived at her front gate, requesting her help on a national mission. They spent the next two hours that January afternoon asking 74-year-old So Nin about growing up amid the ruins of the Angkor kingdom and her memories of the ancient monuments built by the Khmer empire before its collapse in the 15th century.

In the summer of 2021, the meetings took on a greater urgency: Lion was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer. “He made this decision to just transfer everything he had in his mind to us,” said Gordon, recounting how he and Lion would meet for days on end in Gordon's apartment in Siem Reap. Before his death later that year, Lion was able to point authorities to dozens of looted artifacts he recognized from museum catalogs and other photographs.

 

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