In Fashion’s Self-Referential Season, Designers Become Their Own Muses

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Designers are making collections about their own stuff; the results are clothes that are about the people who make them.

looked back to his own work at his eponymous brand, evolving the wet muslin he showed in a 1985 collection into watery couture dresses at Maison Margiela Artisanal. In keeping with the “how it’s made” approach of the season, he also showcased the many designers and creatives that help make his vision real in a film by Nick Knight.A new take on cardigans and flats for men in the Prada spring 2021 collectionAnd then there is Miuccia Prada.

Alek Wek wears a Cristóbal Balenciaga design reinterpreted by Demna Gvasalia on the fall 2017 Balenciaga runway.Coco Gordon Moore wears a Marc Jacobs Redux Grunge look once worn by her mother, Kim Gordon.Natasha Poly wears a Gianni Versace skirt as a part of Donatella’s spring 2018 collection.Where does fashion’s inward gaze get us, both as a consumerist practice and as a cultural one? When it comes to retail, remaking archive pieces has a proven track record.

As the world suffers an economic downturn, reissuing the comforts of the past can sustain a business. But as far as pushing fashion forward and expanding its circles of inclusion and ideas, metafashion has its limits, reflecting the system’s status quo instead of imagining a new one. Though maybe even that is an antiquated idea.

 

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