Speaking before the police arrived, the owner, Mahmud, a 30-year-old from Qalat Dizah in Iraqi Kurdistan, described how he was keen to start earning cash, having lost 1,600 pounds to a smuggler when he first arrived in France towards the end of the summer.
But even before this, Mahmud was terrified of the Channel crossing. A month ago, he was taken to the coast by another smuggler and backed out after he saw he would be sharing the boat with 47 people. “I said ‘no, I’m scared!’ He hit me and broke my phone to make sure I didn’t call the police.” Normally, it is not his favourite dish, although he likes it. For now, he says, “it’s the best sandwich in the camp because it is very national food.”
The camp smells toxic as people start burning bottles and packaging to keep bonfires going. “Everyone is at home in front of their fireplaces, and we are here under a sheet of plastic,” he said. It was there that he learnt to cook in a Kurdish restaurant, where he became a specialist in kebab and flatbread. “I could make 800 pieces of bread on my own in one day,” he said.
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