There's nothing wrong with treating yourself. When I do, it's almost always with seafood. If it's lobster night, that means two whole lobsters for me, and then I'll pick clean the bodies that anyone else is unwilling to touch. A seafood salad is nothing less than a rococo mountain of tender ocean jewels. I've brought home whole trays of creamy sea urchin and shucked a hundred oysters in one sitting.
There are limits, though—like cost, if nothing else. Not every night can be caviar night. Or can it? I've been turning this question over in my head recently as I've meditated on, and eaten my fair share of,, the Japanese rice bowl studded with plump beads of salmon roe. It takes advantage of the thing that all rice bowls offer—an expanse of affordable rice—to stretch what is really a relatively small amount of a pricey ingredient.
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