Ikejime: a humane way to kill fish that makes them tastier

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When Yoshinori Ishii came to Britain to work as a chef, he was appalled by the quality of produce available From 1843mag

“I’ll have to have a pair of glasses to do this shortly,” says Daniel Wood as he threads a wire through the spinal cord of a dead sea bass. As the wind whistles eerily through the fishing lines, the dead fish seems to spring to life. Its fins flare, its mouth gapes and its body spasms as the metal filament proceeds along the length of its spine, destroying nerves. When the filament reaches its cranium, the fish relaxes.

Yoshinori was determined to bring ikejime to Britain, and, five years after getting in touch with Kernowsashimi, the Cornish wholesaler that employs Wood, he finally convinced a handful of their fishermen to practise the fiddly and time-consuming technique. Ikejime, which translates as “closing the fish”, was refined about 200 years ago during Japan’s Edo period.

for up to 24 hours. Yoshinori serves me a bowl of turnip purée, garnished with caviar and draped with slices of raw Arctic char, a cold-water fish from the salmon family. The texture is extraordinary: silky but crunchy, like microscopic bubble-wrap. To follow is a plate of turbot, sliced to translucence. It too snaps between the teeth and while there’s depth to the flavour because the umami has had time to develop, it still tastes freshly caught.

 

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1843mag Fanciful nonsense.

1843mag There’s no humane way to kill anything! ‘Humane’ makes us feel better and that poor creature is not offering itself up voluntarily either!

1843mag The creature would feel pain and this is not appropriate.

1843mag Reads pretty torturous to me.

1843mag People,killing is humane. Most animals kill. We have canine teeth to um, you know, eat meat ;). Also, fish is great and helps reduce the chance of a ton of diseases.

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