reputation was pretty dodgy. The "Combat Zone" moniker hung around like the scent of stale beer and smoke the morning after. Walking home through the city at night, I was warned to avoid this neighborhood. That advice always seemed counterintuitive to me, since the rest of the city was dark, whilewas alive with happy people and fully lit with its unique mix of neon and fluorescent light, equal parts charming and hideous.
When I began to lead food and culture tours through my adopted neighborhood, I became aware of elder Chinese men lingering around the perimeter of my group. They watch, listen, as I share the philosophy and history of the gate. They observe my enthusiasm and size-up my authenticity. The first nod of approval from one of these Gong Gongs—grandpas—was something I’ll never forget.This community has weathered many challenges.
As the population doubled, the residential housing was cut in half to improve highway access. Growing hospitals soon scooped up more property and today, the neighborhood battles the headaches brought on by Airbnb and luxury development. And yet, Chinatown has thrived.
Hei La Moon shoutout in this article. The BEST dim sum in Chinatown!
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