Grant and I talked this week about writing process, the ugly realities of restaurant kitchen culture and more as we sheltered in place: she in Berkeley, me in Echo Park.How did you arrive at the spare, poetic structure of this book?I had a book deal with Clarkson Potter six years ago and ended up writing a very bloated memoir. It went off the rails, but I felt like there were pieces in there to salvage.
For a long time, recipes were inserted throughout the book. And photos. But it never flowed. It felt fractured. The white space emerged when we removed the recipes and photos. [The recipes are now the book’s conclusion.] And it felt right. There was room to pause. Take it in.In the acknowledgements you thank chefs you worked for in the ’90s: Nobu Matsuhisa, Michael McCarty, David Bouley and Bill Yosses.
We have finally started telling our stories, and prosecuting the predators, and completely restructuring workplace dynamics. In this #MeToo light, I do see that my choice to not name names could be construed as not going far enough. But I played the game back then. I make it clear how very grateful I was to these people for bringing me into their kitchens and for teaching me. I chose to stay, and I learned a lot. Not that I want anyone to shove anything under the rug.
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