: movie theater nachos, bowling alley cheese fries, theme park soft pretzels dipped in a vat of neon yellow goop. There’s something uniquely comforting about the combination of carbohydrates and warm, salty cheese-adjacent substances. When I’m hit with a wave of nostalgia, this is what I crave.
My love of snack foods runs deep, but since I don’t always enjoy the feeling after eating loads of them , I’ve developed a parallel passion for re-creating less-processed versions of my favorites. Over the years, it’s become something of a hobby to figure out how to turn the stash of ingredients in my pantry—vegan staples like nutritional yeast, coconut oil, and vital wheat gluten—into the closest approximations possible.
On one recent night at home , I was struck with an acute need to have this gooey, salty “plastic cheese” on the twice-baked potatoes I was planning to make for dinner. So I decided to doctor up something like it with what I had on hand. While plant-based cheese sauces are not a new idea, this one requires absolutely zero planning. No soaking the cashews overnight, no cooking and mashing a starchy orange vegetable, no preservatives or emulsifiers.
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