How to Make Savory, Sublime Potato and Peanut Empanaditas

manages to capture the variety of Colombian food through five sections, including one on breakfast foods, another dedicated to “afternoon bits and bites” — Velásquez’s own everyday go-tos, which she describes as “Colombian-ish” — and a final “oda al postre” .

The anchoring middle section of the book is organized into dinner party menus, complete with suggestions for table settings and playlists. It’s a decision that seems to have predicted the desires of this precise moment, but in actuality was one more way to capture the country’s regional diversity. “That is where I wanted to evoke the regions of Colombia and to transport ourselves to those tables in those specific places that have a very different look and feel,” says Velásquez.

These peanut and potato empanaditas are the starter from the book’s “Cauca Valley Soirée” menu, which evokes the “the warm breeze of the lush Cauca River valley,” where “music resonates in people’s hips and spicy ají flavors every party.” Ají does indeed flavor the sauce that goes with the empanadita recipe, which makes a potentially intimidating 65 mini empanadas. But Velásquez says that making them can be as much a part of the party as the eating itself. “You get your friends to help you do it. There’s nothing more satisfying than creating a work line where everybody helps,” she says. “You’re baking or frying empanadas. People are shaping them and having drinks in between. That’s a really fun way to do it.

can either be baked or fried. Naturally, fried is the traditional way and the most delicious, but if you, like me, sometimes don’t have it in you to deep-fry, the oven method works just fine. Serve with Ají de ManíEmpanada dough is a delicate beast — the moisture in the air and, if you are superstitious, the mood of the cook, will affect how much water you’ll actually need for the dough to be just right.

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