How to Make Real Deal Classic Austrian Apple Strudel

literally means"whirlpool," and it refers to the technique and effect of rolling up of a generous fruit filling in a paper thin unleavened dough. Since landing in Berlin a few weeks ago, I've been sampling apple strudel whenever I can.

I certainly did, so I pulled out my old pastry books, found the largest pieces of clean fabric I could muster, and took a deep breath. I hadn't made a strudel dough since the time I did it in pastry school, and that was many years ago. Luckily, it turns out making strudel is like riding a bike. Learn how to do it once, and you'll know how to do it forever.

In the center of the table, carefully tilt the board and then flip it over so that the dough lands on the cloth. If you don't want to flip, you can also nudge it off by shimmying one end of the dough onto the cloth and then pulling the board out from under it.Now the fun part. Starting from the center, reach under the dough and begin to gently pull out towards the edge. Think of it as if you were making a giant pizza. Since it's soft, the dough should stretch easily into shape.

Finally, I lay out my fruit filling, which I make with about two pounds of cubed baking apples, a half cup of raisins, five teaspoons of lemon juice and a teaspoon of lemon zest, along with 3/4 cup of sugar, a pinch of cinnamon, and a pinch of salt. Pile that filling onto the bottom portion of the dough in a narrow row that's about eight inches above the bottom edge and ends about three inches shy of either side.Mix the apple filling just before adding it to the dough.

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