, many classic Indian pickles or achaars are preserved in seed oils, such as fragrant mustard oil or sesame oil—their closest relatives are oil-cured olives or sundried tomatoes. Some achaars are sweet, made with a sugar or jaggery syrup. For those, look for regional names like Murabba , Choonda , or the prefix Gol or Gul or Gud, which indicates that the achaar was made with jaggery. Such sweet or spicy condiments perk up all sorts of comfort foods.
Classic achaar recipes require cooking firm seasonal fruits like raw mangoes in flavorful oils with robust spices, and then curing the mixture in dry summer heat. Glass and ceramic jars packed with freshly-made achaar, their mouths covered in thin muslin cloth, are set out to cure in the hot summer sun directly on the ground, or on short tables away from curious critters.
Many achaar recipes are passed down through the generations from one matriarch to another; I learned from my mother, who learned from her mother, and so on. The two recipes included here are family favorites—so loved that I had to include them in my book,Tools you need
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