Originally a nutritional powerhouse of Indigenous North America, succotash was a brothy, long-simmered dish, defined by two critical ingredients: dry corn, hulled by steeping in wood-ash lye , and dry beans. Upon this savory background was layered an ever-varying array of fish, shellfish, meat, roots, nuts, fruits and leaves; the results simmered up in the kettle would never be exactly the same twice.
As someone who studies food history to learn about cultural transitions, I developed this particular version of the recipe as a practical exercise in imagination, exploring what may have resulted when early English colonizers, themselves an avid broth-cooking people, took on this Indigenous food and seasoned it with their own flavorings and garnishes.
My passion for succotash is stoked by the knowledge that some of my neighbors here in Plymouth, Massachusetts, still to this day eat — and find meaning in — a particular version of this venerable dish.
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