PARIS — JW Anderson captured the most attention on Instagram among all the fashion designers in New York, London, Milan and Paris during the most recent fashion season, according to a study from Heuritech.
“Then came Opium in 1977, the blockbuster,” he continued, referring to the YSL launch that channeled the brand’s essence of excess—with everything from its provocative name, juice, advertising, bottle and launch party one year later on a boat moored in New York’s South Street Seaport, where vessels loaded with opium used to arrive from Asia.In the Eighties and Nineties, alternative designer fragrances whipped up a lather of excitement.
Some industry experts attributed the rise of niche scents to how risk-taking on product development can be scaled down after designer fragrance brands become acquired by big groups, especially publicly quoted companies. The experts also pointed to the fact designer fragrances have been frequently discounted.
“However, more recently these luxury players have faced rising competition from other high-end brands, particularly as premium unisex fragrances gain momentum—notably players such as Jo Malone, Le Labo, Kilian and Diptyque,” she continued.Of Nineties designer fragrances, Eric Henry, founder of the brand-building consultancy EH4B, said: “They did bring much more growth, compared to the niche fragrances, which are bringing limited growth. There is no comparison.
Joël Palix, founder of boutique consultancy Palix Unlimited, pointed to how for established fashion labels reintroducing products from their past can be a good means to tap into consumers’ desire for retro products. Among the steadfast elements is the need for a strong fragrance, packaging, overall concept, point of differentiation, creativity and innovation.“Designer fragrances, in the end, are not different from any other fragrances,” said Ana Trias Arraut, cbo of Carolina Herrera, Dries Van Noten and Nina Ricci at Puig. “The most important thing is getting the desire of the consumer right.”
In 2021, the tracking firm expects fragrance sales to rise on-year by 4.5 percent, whereas makeup revenues should be up by 5.7 percent and skin care’s by 8.7 percent.
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