How Birria Tacos Conquered America

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Inside 2020’s great birria boom

In 2005, two Mexican-American teenagers from LA met at the fair in Coatzingo, Puebla, during Semana Santa, or Holy Week, a time when countless Mexican-American families head back to their family’s hometowns all over Mexico to visit relatives. The pair were partying, meeting girls, and dancing to banda, oblivious to the monied birrieros gambling and flashing rolls of cash at the annual event.

In 1968, Zárate had saved up enough to move his operation to the smoky taqueria row known as Las Ahumaderas, a late-night destination where young Tijuanenses like the chef Javier Plascencia would go for carne asada tacos after school events, quinceaneras, and dances in the 1980s. Birria de res was less fashionable for Tijuanenses during this period. “I didn’t eat birria until I was a teenager,” says Plascencia.

In 2013, Ruben Ramirez approached his cousin Oscar Gonzalez and asked him to help him strike it rich selling some of that Poblano gold to LA’s Mexican community. Ramirez’s uncle, also from Coatzingo, had been selling birria de res for 40 years in Tijuana’s La Gloria neighborhood, and the two set up a birria stand in Oscar Gonzalez’s driveway in South Central.

 

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