How a Great TV Wig Is Made

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Really great TV wigs are akin to miracles, and here's what goes into making the best kind of wig, according to TV hairstylists

Angela Bassett’s Marie Laveau wig had to be re-created last minute for her return to American Horror Story: Apocalypse. Photo: FX The breakout hair of Russian Doll was undoubtedly Natasha Lyonne’s curly red mop. It was her own hair colored red for the production, and several wig versions of it were put onto stunt doubles and then sent tumbling down staircases, flying through the air after being hit by cars, and walking past other versions of itself over the course of the series.

Russian Doll’s Elizabeth Ashley was insistent that her gray Ruth wig be “perfect.” Photo: Netflix Part of that comes down to cost, because the easiest way to get a really great wig is to have it made custom for whoever’s wearing it. Custom wigs involve taking a mold of the actor’s head, tracing their hairlines, and taking lots of photos so that the wigmaker can mimic that person’s hairline as closely as possible. But custom wigs are huge line items on a budget.

“It’s not like I had custom wigs made for the stunt doubles,” she explains. “Well in advance of starting our show, I knew stunt wigs were going to be needed on a regular basis.” In the case of Alison Brie’s character Ruth, “the wig was $1,200, and then I permed it, and colored and cut it.” Even with human-hair wigs in hand, though, the process of making those wigs match Lyonne’s hair still required Dagenais to cut, color, and style each one, a process that he says takes about four days, and that he does as “a conveyor belt of wigs lined up in my kitchen.” And because each individual wig is made up of several different human-hair sources, the coloring process is especially time-consuming. “With each wig,” Dagenais explains, “it’s multiple heads of hair in one wig.

Even when productions do use custom wigs, or when a stock wig has been modified so that it perfectly fits an actor, vagaries of production scheduling can still make wig work wildly difficult. Ceglia recalls a period during the filming of the most recent season of American Horror Story when she was informed at the last possible moment that Angela Bassett would be returning later that week as Marie Laveau, a character from earlier seasons of the show who wears a massive wig.

 

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