Houston’s hottest hidden bars and restaurants

, tucked away in an enclave within Four Seasons Hotel Houston, represents a posh, ultra-refined example of Houston’s growing appetite for hidden speakeasy-style restaurants and cocktail lairs.

Getting inside Bandista is part of the “hidden” process. Snagging a reservation is tricky and may take several shots, given the precious few spots available. Once passage is secured, guests meet a staff member in the hotel lobby and are directed to a special elevator up to the third floor and through Toro Toro restaurant to an anteroom outfitted with a special bookcase. That bookshelf is actually the door to Bandista.

It’s a unique and expensive experience. A gin/vodka Vesper cocktail is priced at $32, although it does come with side dish on which rests a wee spoonful of caviar and a frozen shower of liquid nitrogen truffle cream. The house French 75 will set you back $35, and the Manhattan is an eyebrow-raising $45. Those are examples of 1920s cocktails. The 2020s side of the list includes modern elixirs such as Fig Daisy , Viking Funeral and Sparkling Courage .

Even if I were a billionaire, I would never pay $45 for a Manhattan.

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