Head of State Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

For his fall collection, Head of State designer Taofeek Abijako wanted to use his clothes to tell a more personal family story. To do so, he drew from a laborious journey that his father, Nureni, embarked on in the early 2000s; At the time, Nureni attempted to travel from Lagos, Nigeria—where Abijako was raised—to Spain. “He was pursuing a better life for our family,” said Abijako.

Abijako’s latest assortment of menswear and womenswear very much served as an homage to Nigeria as a result. Through clothes, the designer wanted to capture the vibrant memories both he and his dad associate with their home country . In doing so, he wanted to combine the traditional elements of Nigerian style—“the silhouettes, cut-outs, and embroideries”—with an unexpectedly modern, utilitarian finish. “I have two homes, in New York and in Lagos, so I found that balance,” says Abijako.

The nods to Nigerian style certainly came through via the rich texture and color palette of the pieces, such as the asymmetrical-lapeled suit, done in a dusty orange hue. “It's reminiscent of the dusty soil texture that’s common in Western Africa,” said Abijako. Other looks, like his spliced knits or trousers, also featured a deliberately crackled finish that called back to specific Lagos architecture.

It was a sentimental collection, but it went beyond that. Abijako made successful attempts at elevating his usual silhouettes and fabrications, too. The corseted, cropped suit in power blue felt especially fresh, and reminiscent of the Head of State look that he designed for Evan Mock for last year’s Met Gala. The strapless emerald finale gown, with a full tiered skirt, nodded to the ensemble Danai Gurira wore to the same event.

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