Hamish Bowles on Irving Penn’s 1950 and 1995 Couture Portfolios for Vogue

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For this sitting, a cabine of the loveliest women in Paris—and Penn’s wife and muse, the superb Lisa Fonssagrives—trooped up several flights of stairs to the unheated studio where Penn had installed his fabled gray tarpaulin backdrop, to work through the night. Theor salesladies of the couture house, selling clothes on commission, would not yield their precious garments until after the last client had left for the day, and needed them back in good time for the first appointments on the morrow.

So you can imagine the excitement when Mr. Penn finally agreed to return to Paris with the Penn Whisperer Phyllis Posnick, to document the haute couture collections for fall 1995, and the new band of tastemakers who were responsible for them.

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