New American despite only technically being one of those two things. But it, too, shares the tropes of the genre: scallops with Thai nam jim, octopus with tamari and togarashi. New American might be vague, but it is also recognizable.In the absence of other language, New American is, perhaps, the simplest description of what these chefs are doing: pulling from an array of contemporary resources to reflect something about dining in America.
When food media went through a racial reckoning in 2020, part of the fallout was precisely a call for more specificity. The complaint—a chickpea dish heavy on turmeric that was close enough to many South Asian dishes to raise more than a few eyebrows—the objection was less about who owns what, or who has a right to use which ingredient, than simply a desire to call something by its right name.
The objection was less about who owns what, or who has a right to use which ingredient, than simply a desire to call something by its right name. Eater described Peel’s approach as “grounded in the Islands and exposed to the world.” It’s not a bad way to think of American food right now: rooted somewhere, but also reflecting the fact that the Americans cooking and eating it come from places where the food cultures are far different from what’s historically been considered American.Yet on Nami Kaze’s website, rather than New American or Japanese American, what it says in large sans serif is “Japanese + American.
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