The practice of reworking old themes is a familiar concept at the world’s best jewelry houses, but this year designers revised the legacies and dynasties of kingdoms past for today’s increasingly relaxed but no less lavish aesthetic. Jewelers took hefty proportions and antique settings and modernized them, incorporating colorful gems for a fresh perspective and, in one case, using materials, borrowed from the ancient world, never before seen in high jewelry.
While an air of levity at Boucheron and Santi offered a novel take on historically sumptuous jewels, Chanel opted for deep hues and serious weight in a singular 55.55-carat sapphire to accent its Allure Celeste necklace, derived from a diamond star brooch created for the house’s first foray into high jewelry, the. The heritage pieces were executed primarily in white diamonds, but 90 years later the sapphire is the attention-grabber of the anniversary lineup.
Other designers are relying on bygone eras not only as creative wellsprings but also for literal artifacts that can be used anew. A trip to Egypt yielded unprecedented material for’s earrings. Sourced from a dealer in the region, authentic century-old papyrus paper—popularized by the early 20th-century tourist trad—is set on wood, covered in a protective layer and then framed in 18-karat gold and topped off with lapis lazuli and diamonds.
Reaching back into the past to find original expressions for the present is a perennial exercise in design, but this year the spirit of jewelry’s history appeared to breathe new life into its modern disciples.
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