For Paradise fire survivors, a stranger’s handwritten recipe scrapbook offers a chance to rebuild

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Their family recipes are gone forever, but the scrapbook is a bridge to new cooking traditions.

Don Sergent’s recipe for chili and beans, handwritten by Debra Brown. By Amy Ettinger May 9 at 11:00 AM Keri Bush kept her mom’s recipes in an old wooden box filled with 3-by-5 recipe cards in her Paradise, Calif., home. It had instructions for all of her Christmas treats, along with her mother-in-law’s pie crust, passed down from her father, who was a baker.

Keri Bush’s mother-in-law’s pie, the recipe for which is now lost. Debra Brown saw Bush’s request and started gathering recipes from friends around the world. Brown, who grew up in California and now lives in Plano, Tex., put together a cookbook divided into seven sections, including appetizers, meat and poultry, soups and salads, and desserts. It took her 52 hours of work to hand-write the cards and arrange them into a scrapbook.

Brown’s friend Andrew, who lives in Australia, contributed a recipe for traditional calico Christmas Pudding, which is usually cooked in a cloth. According to Andrew, one day his grandmother discovered her mother-in-law cooking the treat in one of her old bras. “From that year on, the pudding was made by my grandmother instead.”

The Internet has made it easier to recover popular recipes, but many fire survivors are longing for a connection to the past. And for cooks, those connections are often tactile. Those who have lost their recipes don’t just miss the instructions — they miss seeing their mom’s loopy handwriting, or the footnotes to add more butter to a crust — all the tiny generational tweaks that turn a family recipe into a living document.

 

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