For Colorado restaurants opening at Denver International Airport, is the risk worth the reward?

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When Justin Cucci would fly out of Denver International Airport more than 10 years ago, he’d usually pack his own food. “As a traveler, I was always let down by the food and the lack of Denver repr…

Friends traveling to San Diego for a bridesmaids party stopped to have breakfast at Mercantile in Concourse A at Denver International Airport before their flight on Feb. 28, 2024. When Justin Cucci would fly out of Denver International Airport more than 10 years ago, he’d usually pack his own food. “As a traveler, I was always let down by the food and the lack of Denver representation,” he said., he decided to take the risk.

Cucci wouldn’t reveal how much of that $15.7 million his company gets to keep, but restaurateurs at DIA typically earn 2 to 7%, according to multiple people interviewed for this story. The airport takes around 15 to 18%, and the concessionaire gets the rest. They have to mitigate the risk of quality and reputation when handing over their name and recipes to concessionaires. But most say the loss of control is worth the revenue and attention they get as a result, and many feel like they can manage the upkeep of the airport restaurant if needed so the customer experience doesn’t suffer.

“Additionally, it creates pathways and opportunities for disadvantaged small businesses to have a seat at the table with the major operators in the industry,” she added, since most airports provide special dispensation for these businesses. Altogether, DIA’s restaurants did $596 million in gross sales in 2023. With 17.76% of that going to the city, which owns the airport, it’s not surprising that Denver City Auditor Tim O’Brien keeps a close idea on how DIA manages its contracts with concessionaires.

For Tafoya, his goal at DIA “is to reflect the community to which it serves,” which is why he focuses on Denver-specific names. “The biggest challenge working with independent restaurateurs is convincing them that we have their best interest at heart,” Tafoya said. Mercantile is a popular spot for travelers to eat in Concourse A at Denver International Airport on Feb. 28, 2024.

Tastes on the Fly works closely with Seidel, allowing him to create the menus, help build the restaurant team and use his own vendors. Seidel’s wholesale artisan pastry company, Füdmill, provides all of Mercantile’s pastries and burger buns at DIA. “Not everyone would do that, and I’m just fortunate they want to work with us to ensure food quality,” he said.

“Warning: Don’t get bright eyes by the potential of passive income,” Pollack said. “Focus on finding the right operator to partner with. There’s a Rosenberg’s Bagels sitting on Concourse B that will never be a Rosenberg’s Bagels.”

 

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