I didn't mean to get so hyperbolic right out of the gate, but sometimes, a subject demands it. In this case, that subject is shoes. Those devices cavepeople wore to protect their feet from the elements have since, 40,000 years later, become a critical part of our world.
Viti has the kind of high-gloss resume that designers find themselves fantasizing about during quiet moments of studio time: In one of his very first jobs, he worked alongside Tom Ford at the fabled Ford-era Gucci, then spent five years with Miuccia Prada at Prada. By 2004, Marc Jacobs had hired him at Louis Vuitton, and in 2016, he launched his own self-named standalone luxury label.
"I realized I don't love fabric that much because it falls down," jokes Viti. "I realized that shoes are more like a sculpture because you have to mold the heel, you have to basically do a little sculpture. And this was something very personal to me." Footwear is obsessive for a reason, and not simply because it's the product of generational heritage and regional identity. Shoe designers have a duty to protect physiology in a way that those in the clothing, handbag or jewelry space do not. As Chanel's longtime head shoe designer, this is chief priority for Laurence Dacade, who launched her own eponymous luxury label in 2008 in tandem with her years of collaboration with Creative Directors Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard.
That's not to say that each faction of a fashion brand isn't as multidimensional as it may be in the shoe department. Couture ateliers, of course, are almost mythically rooted in practices that were inaugurated in the 17th century. When footwear designers enter a legacy label, they bring with them a commitment to honor not only the greater creative direction of the collection, but also the artisans behind the curtain.
The answer to this question does not exist on the opposite end of a formula, carefully calculated by professionals like Viti or Dacade over the course of years. Instead, to design for a legacy brand like Louis Vuitton or Chanel requires some amount of coloring within the lines — but you may just get to retool what, exactly, those lines are.
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