FIRST LOOK: How the ‘Halston’ Costume Designer Built Iconic Tie-Dye Collection

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Fashion designer Halston’s tie-dye collection first dropped in the late 1960s. Silk chiffon was draped over the body and revolutionized fashion as stylish New Yorkers and celebrities such as Anjeli…

“Halston,” which debuts May 14, traces the life of Roy Halston Frowick, the Bergdorf Goodman milliner who got his start as a Chicago hatmaker and shot to fame in the ’60s, becoming mononymic after designing First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy’s pillbox hat for her husband’s presidential inauguration in 1961.

“We knew in the first episode that we wanted to show his evolution coming into his own as a fashion designer instead of a milliner,” says San Juan, who worked closely with the show’s writers and director Daniel Minahan to decide which of Halston’s works would demonstrate his “strong, independent and creative voice.” The tie-dye garments fit that notion perfectly.

San Juan also collaborated with production designer Mark Ricker to get a sense of the room where the fashion show for the tie-dye collection was to be held. “I said, ‘Let’s put all of the people present at his show in contrasting color palettes such as busy patterns from the ’60s so you can tell how dated their clothes look,’ and that made the contrasting collection pop,” says San Juan. The idea was to show how his sleek designs remain timeless even 50 years later.

 

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