This spring 2025 Fendi menswear show revealed the first collection of the brand’s 100th anniversary year: in it, Silvia Venturini Fendi transmitted multiple messages about the past, present and future of the house. “I’ve been deep-diving into the archives, and I wanted to talk about codes and symbols,” she said.
Edging the crest and running through the collection was the robust Selleria stitching adopted by the founding Fendis from Roman saddlery techniques and incorporated into their earliest leather goods. Said stitch was embossed as a check onto a brown leather overcoat, overlaid onto a gently fizzy pastel check, inlaid into denim, or inserted as a jacquard micro pinstripe.
Fendi’s conception of her family house becoming a member of a club inspired her to reference various forms of club affiliation, including a knit Fendi soccer shirt , and rugby shirts in oversized Pequin striping. There were club ties and cricket sweaters too. Much of the attire seemed rooted in quite classical 20th century menswear forms—the check was used to fashion almost dad-like golfing blousons—but a progressive subversion was often applied through sensual touches and detailing.
Maybe it was fanciful, but you could detect a reference to Karl Lagerfeld in the penultimate back suit. And as well as running down through hemlines, there was also transitional continuity on the benches in the form of the house’s new CEO Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou, who this afternoon sat just along from his predecessor Serge Brunschwig. “We want the company to be ready for the next centenary,” observed Fendi backstage.
Spring 2025 Menswear Runway_Review Runway
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