It’s easy to imagine comedian Fanny Brice spending many a festive night at storied Hollywood eateries like Perino’s and the Brown Derby. Newly opened for dinner service, Fanny’s — at Los Angeles’ recently launched— interprets the comfortable, classy feel of those vintage spots in its own sleek, contemporary way.
Fanny’s has a tricky balancing act to pull off: By day, it’s a casual café and coffee stop for visitors to the museum. At night, diners can pull up on Fairfax just north of Wilshire and valet their cars for dinner or drinks. The elegant 10,000-square-foot corner space — just about where the May Co. cosmetics counter was in Brice’s day — was designed by Commune and conceptualized by the late architect Osvaldo Maiozzi.
While the lunch menu skews globally eclectic, with dishes like lamb meatballs, short rib burritos and smoked fish rillettes, dinner is “old-school dining — good food but not pretentious,” Francois tells. “We’re going to add a tableside Caesar salad and a côte du boeuf with a salt crust,” he says, and entrées include orata fish with hollandaise and pork porterhouse steak.
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