Famed Indian climber nearly died on peak where team was lost

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Legendary Indian mountaineer says modern mountaineering bears little resemblance to the expeditions he led, with operators' current tight schedules and climbers' lack of experience leading to more casualties on Himalayan peaks, emilyschmall writes.

In this Tuesday, June 4, 2019, photo, Legendary Indian mountaineer Manmohan Singh Kohli, 88, looks out from the glass door of his farmhouse in New Delhi, India. To Manmohan Singh Kohli, who led the first Indian team to the peak of Mount Everest, modern mountaineering bears little resemblance to the expeditions he led decades ago.

After Kohli led nine Indian climbers to the top of Everest in 1965, he became a celebrity. He joined India’s state-owned airline to travel around the world to speak about the endeavor, which, at the time, had only been attempted by a handful of people. The crowding caused delays in the so-called “death zone” from Camp 4 to the peak where, because of the altitude, climbers have just hours to reach the top before they are at risk of a pulmonary edema, when the lungs fill with liquid. Eleven climbers died this season, the biggest death toll on Everest in four years.

Moran returned this May to lead an expedition to Nanda Devi East over the established route along the mountain’s southeastern ridge, according to their online itinerary on Scotland-based Moran Mountain’s webpage. “In comparison with Nanda Devi East, Everest is a picnic,” said Maninder Kohli, Captain Kohli’s son and an avid trekker who manages risk assessment for the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, the group that approves expeditions.

 

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