Etro Spring 2023 Menswear Collection

Kean Etro delights in layering multiple references with the ease that comes not only from experience but from true cultural curiosity. His love of literature and poetry are just some of his many interests, and this season, instead of invitations, he had actors phone each of the show’s hundreds of guests to recite a dedicated poem to each one.

It was a gesture of exquisite sensitivity, marking his last solo collection for Etro and his elegant way of passing the baton to Marco De Vincenzo, who will take the lead as creative director from September. De Vincenzo was in the audience today, applauding a collection that was quintessentially Kean in its celebration of poetic eclecticism. “Poetry and utopia go hand in hand,” he said backstage before the show. “In its etymology, poetry simply means making, composing.

Yet there wasn’t much utopia in the breezy sensuality of the collection; rather a plausible idea of gentle masculinity filtered through Kean’s cultivated, sentimental eye. Following circadian rhythms, looks were presented in circular chromatic cadence, from morning whites through sun-at-the-zenith brights to velvety darks dotted with starry figments.

The energy-charging ritual may have worked: there was a lively feeling to the collection that propelled it forward, despite the stifling heatwave which made the air feel unnaturally still. Billowy see-through chiffon kaftans and elongated shirts and kimonos in liquid satin were worn open to reveal nude skin, as well as boxing shorts exposing bare legs. The body was perceived through mesh textures, broderie Anglaise inserts, and impalpable silks and linens.

That's cute

The short is nice

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