Esse Australia Resort 2023 Collection

Charlotte Hicks was feeling surprisingly serene after Esse Studios’s Australian Fashion Week runway debut. “It’s the setting. You can’t help but let go and unwind and just lose yourself in this incredible space,” she said postshow, gesturing to the vaulted granite ceilings of the architectural jewel that is the Sydney Opera House.

If things looked familiar, that was deliberate. She chose the occasion to celebrate a mix of past seasons from her four-year-old slow-fashion label, making a statement about the way we think about newness in the process. To wit: Her popular tailored trousers were refreshed in silk, cut roomy, and slung low on the hip.

To know about Hicks: She’s a stickler for sustainability. She’s just embarked on the involved process of earning B Corp certification, 98% of her pieces are made locally in Australia, and she has close relationships with the mills in Italy, Japan, and Australia, including a more than 90-year-old family-run Melbourne business that knit her slinky fine-gauge dresses.

But the elevated staples are just one prong to her approach. To reinvigorate a wardrobe, she peppers in what she’s dubbed accent pieces—like a sinuously draped stringy, asymmetrical top, deftly folded on one side to wrap around a shoulder, or a draped and folded maxidress, spliced to reveal the collarbone, in a warm shade of chocolate.

For her show debut, the designer is calmly asking: What has enough design integrity to warrant the space it will take up in our wardrobes? Questioning is something she was doing right up until the minute the models walked. “Do you feel good? Do you feel comfortable?” she asked. As long as the answer is yes, Hicks is on an upward trajectory.

vogueaustralia Definitely gonna have to check that out

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