Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Courreges, Rochas, Dries van Noten In the late spring of 2020, designers expressed the hope that things wouldn’t return to “the way they were” once the pandemic was over. As masks now come off in France, that hope has all but faded. The shows are as elaborate and chaotic as ever, with lines of black cars delivering guests and huge, screaming throngs of young spectators.
Dries Van Noten. Photo: Casper Sejersen Van Noten took over all the rooms on the first two floors, including the laundry, where a leopard-print blazer was displayed on a mannequin with a gold-chain necklace set with shells and a hunk of agate. In a closet hung a black coat made of 44,000 tiny pieces of leather — sequins, he called them — forming a snake pattern.
Dries Van Noten. Photo: Casper Sejersen The setting made for an intimate and immersive experience. Strikingly, an inspiration for the collection was the work of Carlo Mollino, whose name also surfaced at Bottega Veneta. “The way he filled his apartment, though he never lived in it — one big cabinet of curiosities,” said Van Noten. “Things that had nothing to do with each other.” Another touchstone was the erotic sound of the Italian legend Mina, who is still making music at age 84.
Dries Van Noten. Photo: Casper Sejersen Maybe it was the decadent-looking house or the mannequins lurking spookily in a corner — or kissing in the bath — but an erotic undercurrent was unmistakable. It also fits with the post-pandemic vibe, though few designers have embraced it as knowingly as Van Noten.
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