At the LVMH Prize showroom, where he numbered among the 2022 semi-finalists, Eli Russell Linnetz wore a pale blue turtleneck printed with the word sun, straight-leg jeans, and thick skateboarding sneakers all of his own design. A friend in attendance wrote me later about how charming Linnetz is, but said that they didn’t really understand his collection. “It’s just skate clothes?” they texted, confused.
Linnetz’s propensity to confound and inspire is what makes him an engaging designer to watch. He crafts entire worlds for even the simplest garments and images, attaching stories to even mundane items. Those on the outside, who haven’t spent time Zooming, texting, and calling Linnetz might not get the full picture, and sadly, maybe they don’t want to. The forthright, yet whimsical clothing he makes goes against mainstream understandings of jeans, tees, puffers, and prim plaid dresses.
In championing “normal clothes,” Linnetz continues the great American design tradition of Calvin, Ralph, and Dapper Dan—making the ordinary extraordinary. This season, Linnetz cooked up a bildungsroman narrative of a man in a full body cast, whose mind replays the joys of high school, war, and romance, and eventually fragments into mania during an office Christmas party.
It could be an amazing black comedy, but it’s definitely a potent collection of ready-to-wear. Linnetz signatures, like worn-in denim, printed tees, and pastoral skirts were all here, alongside new pieces like a camouflage patchwork puffer, knits in ombré patterns, crisp little cardigans, and star jacquard denim in tonal blue and the colors of the American flag. A collaboration with Salomon’s snowboarding imprint brought kooky color-ways to the collection.
One pin stood out: “How did a kid like me end up in a place like this?” Linnetz has been a showman since day one, a provocateur. His work has taken him on tour with Ye and Lady Gaga, put his photography on the covers of magazines, and spread his ideology to pop culture junkies the world over. Why would a kid like Eli, with so much potential, want to be in a place like the stuffy fashion world anyway? Maybe it’s the tension.
Yeah, I'm gonna go out an buy that. Awful
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