I have been engaged in a clandestine yearslong effort to steal Easter away from my mother, who has hosted the feast our entire lives. It’s not like she does a bad job. In fact, nobody can create a feast as good in as little time. But at some point we all have to let these matriarchs rest. Serve them for a change. And Easter comes with much lower stakes than Thanksgiving or Christmas. Before I go further, I know what you're thinking: Easter was five weeks ago.
But my attempt to make it went horribly wrong last year and I won’t even challenge you to try. Instead, restaurant critic Bill Addison wrote an ode to this perfect cookie and where to find it. But I have a great backup for you: knafeh. You’ll find this treat at many or even most Arab holidays. It’s crunchy, creamy, nutty, sweet. No more description required.
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