Dream Makers and Tender Memories at Milan Fashion Week

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Transparency, time, and sartorial obsessions were top of mind

Glenn Martens opened up a portal this week. For four days leading up to his Fall 2024 show for Diesel on Wednesday, he and his team livestreamed their entire prep process, from castings to fittings to seatings to set design. Anyone could tune in to see how a fashion show comes together, culminating in the runway, which was also live-streamed. Inside the venue, those seated in the space could see the faces of the people watching on Zoom, amplified on giant screens.

There were tight cardigans worn color-blocked against knit tops and prim overcoats decorated with colorful silk panels at the back. Playful isn’t a word often used to describe these cerebral designers, but this season there seemed to be a sweeter bent to their designs, evident in the on-the-nose baseball jackets or the fantastic feathered-covered riding hats.

 

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