‘Discounting Is Not a Luxury Strategy’—The Voices Behind an Open Letter to Retail Address Fashion’s Full Price Future

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Dries Van Noten, Shira Sue Carmi, Andrew Keith and more leaders from the fashion community discuss the potential for shorter discount periods and more full price clothing.

Those among us who shop with passion will have realized that spring 2020 products started to go on sale in season this year. By early April, items that had just arrived at stores were offered at 30% off. This week, those numbers are reaching as high as 80% on some e-tail sites. A dress I watched walk a rainy runway at the Paris spring 2020 shows that was originally listed at $1,590—a sum higher than my monthly rent in Brooklyn—is now reduced all the way to $477.

“Sitting at home, looking at everything from a distance, gave us a different perspective. I thought it was really time to talk in different ways about how people saw fashion,” Van Noten says over Zoom. The conversations he facilitated—and the shift in mindset that resulted from them—is largely thanks to the lockdowns of the COVID-19 pandemic.

Joseph Altuzarra, whose spring 2020 collection is shown here, and CEO Shira Sue Carmi were founding signatories of the Forum Letter.“Price and discounting are not a luxury strategy. If customers don’t value what we sell because we don’t value what we sell, we have killed desire.” —Andrew Keith Bazan, of Thom Browne, echoes this: “I feel that incredible work goes into design, development, manufacturing, marketing, and presentation of the product through retail…to cut it so short and have strong promotional activity so early is unfair.”

So how do you actually get a shopper who stocks her drawers with $10 Uniqlo T-shirts to spend $200 on one? Van Noten knows what works for him.

 

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