Des Phemmes’ Salvo Rizza on Tweaking Brand Strategy, Venturing Into New Categories

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Des Phemmes’ founder Salvo Rizza is tweaking brand strategy and adding knitwear, denim, beachwear, bags in the spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection.

“It’s more a season of experiments. Considering the market, maybe it’s best to stay put and wait for the storm to pass,” said Salvo Rizza, founder and creative director of Italian brand

Only he’s not really staying put but playing in advance on the traditional fashion schedule he has adhered to so far, when he usually presented his brand’s collections in Milan during women’s fashion weeks.collection. “For a young brand, going solo and showing outside the hodgepodge of fashion week is easier. During the shows, there’s never time and people hardly see the collection,” he said of the decision.

“Having such a solid partner backing you makes all the difference. I went from handling everything alone to working with 10 people on collections. Plus, even everything goes wrong in one season, you still have a support system,” he said, comparing his privileged position to those of fellow young brands which are also struggling with cash flow issues due to delayed payments from retailers. is best known for being a longtime business partner of Rick Owens.

In general, the Des Phemmes spring collection was inspired by the 1968 movie “The Girl on a Motorcycle” starring Marianne Faithfull and Alain Delon and the love story they portray between a young bourgeois woman and a biker.

 

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