The project’s genesis came not just from the pair’s wish to spotlight the technical wizardry that lies behind both their own work and that of their collaborators but also as another step forward for the brand’s overarching philosophy, which prioritizes the longevity of craftsmanship over cost-saving shortcuts. One of their biggest concerns remains safeguarding their Bulgarian community’s artisanal practices, many of which are at risk of being lost entirely.
“I think it’s always been about people having a different attitude toward pieces they buy or own,” says Chopova. “I hope that if people really understand what they’re buying, they’ll have a deeper emotional connection with it. Luxury comes with a price tag, and that price tag should mean something, but in a lot of cases, it doesn’t mean anything more than a brand name.
This measured, thoughtful take on running a fashion brand today is reflected in their approach to business too. By eschewing runway shows and doing their own P.R., the duo has avoided some of the money pits that can typically befall young and emerging designers. Similarly, with the bulk of their pieces produced in a single atelier in Bulgaria—where they have a full-time employee overseeing every piece on the ground—overheads are kept impressively low across the board.
Still, the meticulous and labor-intensive craft of their signature accordion-pleat skirts, embellished leather belts, and flouncy, puff-sleeve tartan dresses don’t necessarily come cheap, especially for the creative types who make up the brand’s near-obsessive following.
As both Chopova and Lowena describe it, it’s their community that helped them navigate through the choppy waters of running a small business during a pandemic. “When we were in lockdown and figuring out what to do, having those collaborations really helped give us that push to keep going and keep creating, because you realize if you don’t make this collection, it’s not going to happen,” Lowena says. “It was like a little support bubble, really.
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