The ongoing COVID-19 pandemic and ensuing shutdown have left many restaurants uncertain about their future. As they grapple with new realities, we asked some of them to share their stories.
Before the coronavirus shutdown, family-style dinners and holiday celebrations were a central feature of the historic Basque restaurant and bar in Chino.Founded in 1940 as a boarding house for Basque immigrants, it has been an important touchstone for Southern California’s small but deep-rooted Basque American community.
That magic has been foiled by the coronavirus, which threatens family-style dining at places where communal seating and shareable platters are central to tradition but incompatible with coronavirus-era safety measures. ”People keep asking: ‘When are you opening?’ We don’t know what anything is going to look like yet,” she said.Centro Basco has square footage on its side: The restaurant has more than 5,000 square feet of dining space across several rooms, making six-feet-apart rules more manageable.“I watched strangers become friends around the table. It’s hard to lose that,” she said.
She remembers the original boarders, mostly young men in their early 20s, who lined up in the dining room promptly at noon and at 7 p.m. daily when Helton’s mother rang the cowbell.At one point, her mother rented 10 beds to 20 separate boarders.“There was a day shift and a night shift at the local dairy, and my mom managed to rent every bed twice,” Helton said with a laugh.
Centro Basco, and the cultural traditions it sustains, has withstood other disruptions, including the manic growth spurts of the 1980s and 1990s that saw the Inland Valley’s open spaces replaced with housing developments and warehouses.The restaurant has thrived even in spite of relative obscurity: It’s the oldest restaurant in Chino, yet the two-story white stucco restaurant on Central Avenue is relatively plain and unmarked, except for a faded red awning that reads: “French Basque cooking.
Went there many times while growing up in the area! Great food and service!!
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