Daniel Lee is sitting in a penthouse suite at Claridge’s in an army green sweater, sporty black pants, and Nikes. It is mid-November and beyond the French doors behind him, a sweeping view of drizzly London is visible; Big Ben stands in the distance. The night before, Lee was at Chiltern Firehouse, reconnecting with local fashion reporters and at least one of his former professors from Central Saint Martins, and his throat is a bit sore.
He was rewarded for all this with four statuettes at London’s Fashion Awards in December 2019, a feat matched by no other designer before or after. Early on in the pandemic, Bottega Veneta was flying high enough to step away from the show calendar in favor of more intimate runways far off the fashion week circuit. Then, as quickly as his Bottega Veneta took off—days after arunway show in October 2021, where Mary J. Blige and Lil’ Kim were in the front row—Lee left.
As the conversation turns to the actual fashion, Lee leans in. “Think about the trench coat—it’s been around for decades. So what is the bag that can stand the test of time like that trench coat? What is the shoe? What is the overcoat that lives legitimately next to the trench and will be around for a very long time? We’re thinking about the feeling of the outdoors,” he says. “It’s not necessarily about an overcoat, but also about warmth, tactility, and coziness.
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